Replacing Door Window Seals, Glass and Motors

Door lock Repair Article

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If your windows aren't going up and down I would lubricate the window regulator and tracks inside the door with lithium grease. The spray kind works well because it penetrates deeper. Make sure your window seals are adjusted and not binding. Make sure that the glass is bolted in snuggly so the window doesn't cock sideways on the way up. Make sure your window switch connectors are all tight.

If all else fails your regulator may be bad. One of the members of the forum found that all he had to do was replace the motor. I finished up replacing the window motor last night. Instead of spending the $337.00 on the whole regulator, I bought the motor from South Florida Window Lift 954-763-9991 for $59.00 plus shipping. I drilled out the rivets that hold the motor to the screw drive and used nuts and bolts to put it back together. Works good as new. Part number G8-128. Turns out the gear inside the motor was stripped.

Replacing the Window Seals

Roll the window all the way down. Carefully pry the beltline sill seals (horizontal ledge) up and out so you don't scratch the paint. Take the inside door panel off to expose the inner door. Remove the screws holding the window tracks so they're loose. You can even take the lower part of the tracks out.

Pull the old window seal down from the top of the door. Cut the old window seal down at the bottom corners of the window opening and pull the seal out from the top and pull the bottom part of the seal down and out from the bottom.

The new seals have one side longer then the other. Make sure you put the correct end down the door. The long leg of the door window seal is installed toward the front of the truck on the front doors and towards the rear of the truck on the rear doors. If you put it in wrong it will be almost impossible to remove. Ask me how I know.

Spray soapy water on the inside of the new window track seal. Feed the ends of the new seal down the window tracks one end at at time. It will be tight going because you have to push the new seal between the track and the window glass. Once the seal is all the way down on one side seat it in its upper corner. Peal off the blue tape from the top of the seal and expose the pressure sensitive glue. Push the remaining leg of the seal down into the door. While you're pushing make sure that the glue doesn't contact the top prematurely. The glue is a sticky mastic and once it touches it's a real pain to pull down. It behaves like black taffy and becomes stringy. Once the second leg is all the way down gently bend the vertical seal and jocky the final corner into position.

Put any parts of the track back in and align the track and tighen it up. I kept the window up for awhile so it holds the seal in place until the glue sets up.

This is a good time to clean up the inside of the door and lubricate all the moving parts. When you put the door back together make sure you put the plastic vapor barrier cover back on the door. I used some 3m Feathering Disk Adhesive Type II part number 051135 08051. It's about 6.00 a tube. this is a light stick contact cement which will allow the barrier to be removed again.

Loosen the window track

Loosen the window track

Section of window track exposed through the inner door handle.

Pull the old seal away from the door

Cut the old seal in the corners

Pull the lower section of the old seal out the bottom

Pry up the old window sill seal

Old Seal on the top. New Seal on the bottom

New seal set

New seal showing the glue strip on the top

Inserting the new seal one leg at a time into the door

You want to push the new seal evenly down so you can insert it up into the top of the door frame

How to Remove the Glass:

To do the front passenger-side door remove the lower tracks, the window seals and everything you can take out of the door. Unbolt the glass from the regulator. Grab the glass and raise the right (outside) edge up while rotating the left side down. Place the glass on the right into the indentation below the tracks where the lock assembly goes. Ensure that the glass is as far right as you can go and check your angles so you have maximized the use of the extra space by the lock.

Force the left upper corner down past the left-side track edge. Once you get that inside edge below the door track, you can continue to rotate the glass to 90-degrees and pull it out vertically.

I would not want to do this with anything left in the door - I needed the room where the lift assembly goes to get my hands in, and I needed the room by the lock to tuck the corner of the glass into that spot.


Replacing the Window Motors. Not the Regulator.

Contributed by Frank Lavonia

Cardone 42-607.. Also these model numbers work perfect (2022) and should be around $100 locally. They come with the correct bolts and the heads should be inside nuts on the outside.

I have a 99 and when drilling rivets I only removed the 2 facing forward and the head on the interior facing rivet.

Separating the Motor from the Regulator

New Window Motor on Existing Regulator